Italy, Croatia, Greece 2026
- Fri 4, arrival via Orvieto: Duomo and lunch at Trattoria del Moro Aronne (park Campo della Fiera, not the clifftop ZTL). Evening: Rocca di Passignano, sunset aperitivo, dinner Del Pescatore (regina in porchetta).
- Sat 5, olive-oil tasting (booked): 11:00 at Agriturismo Baldeschi, La Fattoria del Rio di Sopra, Tuoro. Easy afternoon.
- Sun 6, slow lake day: Castiglione del Lago (Rocca del Leone, Palazzo della Corgna), ferry to Isola Maggiore.
- Mon 7, Assisi + Perugia: Basilica of St Francis (strict dress code, shoulders and knees covered), then Perugia (Corso Vannucci, Rocca Paolina).
- Tue 8, on to Montepulciano via Cortona: MAEC and Santa Margherita view. Check out by 11:00.
- Parking: the apartment has none of its own, use the public Piazzale Acton car park right outside (blue lines paid by day, usually free overnight).
- Tue 8, arrival dinner (booked): eating at the agriturismo, 19:30. No ZTL, no parking, no drive home after Cortona. Osteria del Conte has moved to Wed 9.
- Wed 9, Crete Senesi loop: breakfast at Lalma Cafe in town (closed Thu), then a back-roads circuit via Montisi, the Palazzo Massaini winery and the cypress-lined Cypress Rd (SP38, SP71, SP15). Lunch at Il Barrino, Montisi. Dinner booked: Osteria del Conte, 19:30 for two (Via di San Donato 19). Montisi is ~30 min back, so leave the loop by 18:30; phone ahead if you are running late. Park P1 Porta al Prato or P8 Collazzi.
- Thu 10, cooking class (booked): Le Caggiole pasta menu for two, wine included. Town: Piazza Grande and cellars Contucci or De' Ricci.
- Fri 11, Pienza day (Val d'Orcia loop): San Quirico d'Orcia, Bagno Vignoni and Monticchiello around Pienza. Lunch at Trattoria Latte di Luna, Pienza (lunch only, 11:30–16:00, no dinner; ring +39 0578 748606, closing day is disputed). Dinner left loose: Osteria La Porta, Monticchiello (+39 0578 755163, terrace, sunset ~7:40pm, call that morning), or Sperone Nudo, Pienza (+39 0578 748641, 19:00–21:30, closed Mon), or Acquacheta in Montepulciano for the bistecca. Park outside the walls.
- Sat 12, slow day + dinner (booked): pool, casual lunch, optional tasting at Fattoria del Cerro. Dinner at Dopolavoro La Foce, Strada della Vittoria 90, Pienza (+39 0578 754025), ~20 min via SP146/SP40, booked 19:00, free parking, no ZTL.
- Sun 13, drive to Chianti.
- Parking: free on site plus town shuttle. Do not drive the ZTL, park at P1 Porta al Prato.
- How picks are made: TripAdvisor rating and review count checked 12 Sep 2026, hours cross-checked on each venue’s own site. Target 4.5+ and about €120 for two with wine. Anything below the bar shows its real number.
- Sun 13, arrival via Monteriggioni: walk the ramparts, then golden hour at the Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo. Dinner: La Cantinetta di Rignana, Loc. Rignana 13 (+39 347 453 4884, daily 12:00–23:00) — 4.5/5, 1,287 reviews, €€–€€€, a converted mill 15 min away with a terrace over the vines. Last bit is unpaved; the coach parties are a lunch thing, so go early evening. Book it. Fallback: Divino Terrace, Badia a Passignano (+39 370 376 0761), walk-in but only 4.4/5 on 200.
- Mon 14, San Gimignano: towers, Collegiata frescoes, gelato Dondoli. Dinner L’Antica Scuderia 19:30, confirmed ✓ (Via di Passignano 17, +39 055 807 1957). Heads up: 4.3/5 on 837 and €€€€, so under the rating bar and over budget. Booked and 5 min from base, so keep it, but order with the bill in mind.
- Tue 15, Siena, full day. Leave 08:45, park Santa Caterina (fills by 10:00). Buy the OPA Si Pass and the Porta del Cielo slot online the night before.
10:00 Duomo first — floor fully uncovered 18 Aug to 15 Nov. Cathedral, Piccolomini Library, Crypt, Baptistery, ~90 min.
11:30 Museo dell’Opera then the Facciatone, 130 steps, better view than the Mangia and in the pass. Skip the Mangia.
12:15 Porta del Cielo, the walkways above the cathedral vaults. Pre-booked timed slot, not in the pass, ~30 min. Added with the hour the sandwich lunch frees up.
13:00 lunch, hole in the wall: Du’ Cose Da Berna, Via Diacceto 11 — 4.7/5 on 256 reviews, €, #1 of 25 bars in Siena, daily from 11:30. Schiacciate stuffed to order, minutes from the car park, a local room not a tourist one. Famous alternative: Gino Cacino, Piazza del Mercato 31 (4.5/5 but on 2,326 reviews, Mon–Fri 10:00–17:00) — Angelo works alone, so a 20–40 min queue and no substitutions.
13:30 eat it in the Orto de’ Pecci. A path off Piazza del Mercato drops into a green valley inside the walls: vines, olives, donkeys, benches under the trees. Free, 5 min from the Campo, almost nobody finds it. Added.
14:15 Santa Maria della Scala, the pilgrim hospital, daily 10:00–19:00, always quiet.
15:30 Museo Civico for Lorenzetti’s Good and Bad Government. The one interior not to skip.
16:30 Basilica di San Domenico, free — Santa Caterina’s relics and the best view back at the Duomo. Added.
17:15 walk a contrada: the Oca round Fontebranda, or the Torre along Via Salicotto.
18:15 a drink on the Fortezza Medicea ramparts, 5 min from the restaurant. Sunset ~7:30pm.
19:30 dinner, booked ✓ Ristorante Pier Pettinaio, Vicolo Beato Pier Pettinaio 7, table for 2, TheFork ref 1695818984. Late? +39 348 778 2408 (or +39 0577 280042). 4.8/5 on 95 TripAdvisor, #34 of 418; 9.2/10 on 472 TheFork; ~€34 a head, so well inside budget. Sienese cooking, handmade pasta, down a lane off Piazza dell’Indipendenza. Already forwarded to TripIt. Five minutes from San Domenico and the car park.
21:15 walk down to the Campo for the lit piazza and a digestivo. Home ~22:30. (Taverna di San Giuseppe and La Sosta di Violante no longer needed.) - Wed 16, Greve and Castellina: Piazza Matteotti, Falorni, Le Cantine di Greve self-pour. Lunch Il Guardingo 1:30pm ✓ — 4.7/5 on 230, and it is Villa Bordoni’s restaurant, Via San Cresci 31, one venue not two. Afternoon Castellina (Via delle Volte). Long lunch, so no dinner: tagliere and a glass at Falorni, plate at home.
- Thu 17, Poggio al Sole + a table you have not picked. Tasting and lunch nibbles at Poggio al Sole, Strada Rignana 2 (+39 055 807 1850), organic, 5 min from base. Light day. Dinner is open and needs booking — three that clear 4.5 inside budget:
• La Sosta di Pio VII, Barberino Val d’Elsa, 4.6/5 on 2,049, #3 of 19, daily 19:30–22:00, free parking, 10 min. +39 055 807 5923. The easiest yes.
• Ristoro di Lamole, 4.7/5 on 2,291, terrace over the valley, ~35 min. Go early for the light.
• Ristorante La Castellana, Montefioralle, 4.7/5 on 1,189, ~30 min.
Osteria di Passignano removed at your call. - Fri 18, departure (tightest day): leave by 12:00 to 12:30 for Rome FCO (2.5 to 3 hrs), car back 15:00, refuel, then the 18:00 flight. No detours.
- Cut: Antinori nel Chianti Classico and Florence (your call, so Castellina returns to Wed); Castello di Brolio (35 min the wrong way out of Siena); the Panzano day.
- Parking: free on site. Hill towns are ZTLs, park outside the walls.
- Sat 26, arrival night: late dinner O Thanasis (Mitropoleos 69, Monastiraki), then nightcap at 360 Cocktail Bar for the lit-up Acropolis.
- Sun 27, Agora + Lycabettus: Ancient Agora 09:30 (tickets on site, Rick Steves audio app). Lunch Cafe Avissinia. Plaka and Anafiotika. Sunset is 7:16pm, be at the top by ~6:40 (funicular from Aristippou St), drinks at Sky Bar. Dinner in Psyrri (Avli).
- Mon 28, Acropolis (booked): First Access guided tour 07:45 (2 adults, GetYourGuide ref GYG9962Y4ALL, $307.80, meet the main entrance 15 min early). Then Dionysiou Areopagitou, coffee in Thisio, lunch Karamanlidika tou Fani (Ermou 119).
- Mon 28, farewell night (booked): 6:30pm sunset drinks A for Athens (backup Bar 360 or Couleur Locale), 8:30pm dinner Lithos Tavern, Psyrri.
- Wheels: hire a car or quad (carry your IDP). Quads ~€50/day, scooters ~€20–35/day. Hotel partner Auto Dermatas, +30 22840 24408 / WhatsApp +30 698 320 1767.
- Tue 29, arrival: settle near base. A beach club is a short walk down Livadia beach from the hotel for an easy dine and swim; or cheap sun beds at Paralia Agia Irini (south of Parikia), or a water taxi to Crios Beach bar. Evening in Parikia: drinks at Paralia Beach bar, casual dinner.
- Wed 30, Naoussa and the north: the old fishing port and Kolymbithres. Aperitif at Christos Gastro Bar, then dinner at Siparos (seaside sunset, book early). Yemeni (traditional taverna in town) is a casual option another night.
- Thu 1, villages and east coast: hilltop Lefkes (marble path) and Prodromos; seaside lunch at Piso Livadi; swim at Golden Beach (Paralia Golden), with the Blue beach club to dine and swim; Piso Aliki and Palm Beach as alternatives.
- Fri 2, Antiparos boat day: half-day catamaran to Antiparos and Despotiko (the Blue Lagoon).
- Sat 3, departure: checkout 11:00 but flight is 17:50; leave bags, lunch near Livadia (Ephesus on the beach, or Levantis in old-town Parikia), transfer ~16:45.
- Book ahead: Siparos fills up; confirm late-season opening.
Athens, both ways (booked): Welcome Pickups, code 691578. Arrival Sep 26 pickup 20:50 (meets OU304). Departure Sep 29 pickup 08:50 for the Paros flight.
Paros arrival (booked): confirmed by Parian Village 25 Aug. Driver meets you at the airport exit with a name sign, for GQ472 arriving 12:20 Sep 29, 2 people. €45, cash to the driver, not at the hotel.
Paros return (still to do): the Oct 3 run back to the airport for the 17:50 flight (leave ~16:45) is not booked. Email info@parianvillage.gr to add it, €45 one way, cash.
Spata: nothing to book, the apartment runs a free shuttle for the Oct 4 departure.
Pay tolls at the booth: use the white or blue card lanes or green attended cash lanes, contactless works. Avoid the yellow Telepass-only lanes. Hill towns (Montepulciano, Pienza, Siena, San Gimignano, Cortona, Orvieto) are camera-enforced ZTLs, park in the signed lots outside the walls. Return the car with a full tank.
Kiwibank Credit Card Travel Insurance (Allianz, 1 Jul 2025, ref KBNACPV0000170), activated by paying the flights on the card. Max 40-day trip, yours is 33. Windscreen and glass cover taken at the Budget counter. Rental excess covered to $6,000 (less a $200 excess). Policy PDF (also saved in this 01 Itinerary folder).
Settled at pickup — the car is a Fiat Grande Panda. It's a B-segment 5-door hatchback, not an SUV, so it sits inside the Amex Rental Vehicle definition ("sedan, campervan, hatchback or station wagon"). The whole hire went on the Amex, so Airpoints Platinum's $3,000 excess cover now responds — where the booked 3008 would not have qualified. Knock-on: Kiwibank 5.1(e) excludes an excess recoverable from another source, so its larger $6,000 (less $200) cover likely stands down. Only matters if Budget's excess tops $3,000 — that figure is on rental agreement RA 349961710 in the car, and on a small car with CDW, theft and glass cover already taken it is normally well under. You can only claim once, from one source. Reading of the wordings, not advice.
Hire at Parikia port or via hotel delivery. A New Zealand licence is non-EU, so carry your International Driving Permit (sorted) or you cannot legally hire and insurance is void. Hotel partner Auto Dermatas, +30 22840 24408, WhatsApp +30 698 320 1767, parosrentcars.com.
Chianti, two calls left. Picks checked on TripAdvisor 12 Sep 2026, target 4.5+ and ~€120 for two. (1) Thu 17 dinner is still open — La Sosta di Pio VII +39 055 807 5923 (4.6/5, daily, 10 min), or Ristoro di Lamole / La Castellana (both 4.7/5) for the view. (2) La Cantinetta di Rignana, Sun 13, +39 347 453 4884. Tue 15 Siena is done: Pier Pettinaio 19:30, TheFork ref 1695818984. Plus the OPA Si Pass and Porta del Cielo slot online the night before Siena. Mon 14 L’Antica Scuderia 19:30 is confirmed. Reserve any Athens rooftop-with-Acropolis table.
Paros, from the hotel (25 Aug): Ioanna says no need to book far ahead at that time of year, a day out or a walk-in is fine. For the sunset dinner she'd take the Parikia waterfront over Siparos, the sun sets straight out over the sea. Seaside in Parikia: Mortari, Mouragio, Alexandros, Moira, Nice to Meat You. More traditional and local, off the water: Koutouki, Mirmitzeli, Boundaraki, plus the fish tavern Porfyra at Pounda port. Still worth checking Siparos and the beach clubs are trading Sep 29 to Oct 3.